Day 3 - South Laggan to Fort Augustus

I will spare you pictures of the same old breakfast this morning, mostly because I didn’t take any.  🤣 Jo Anne knows I’m the worst at remembering to take food pics. 

There is much fog or low clouds over the mountains and Loch this morning. 

Do you think maybe Kody sucked her water dry yesterday???

This bonny section of the Great Glen Way traces lochs and canals beneath a raft of majestic Munros for the perfect Highland adventure. Do you like how I’m sounding a wee bit more Scottish 🤣. The real question is do you remember what “Bonny” means from a previous post? The different hills and mountains in Scotland have different names. You may remember that Ben Nevis (tallest mountain in the UK) is a Munro, but what is a Corbett, Graham, or Donald? They all have different meanings. 

A Munro is a mountain that is over 3,000ft, or 914-metres. The name is taken from London-born aristocrat and mountaineer Sir Hugh. Sir Hugh loved to explore Scotland’s peaks, and he published a list of all the mountains he had ‘bagged’, which led to the peaks being known as ‘Munros’. Encouraged by Sir Hugh’s adventures, many people have now taken up ‘Munro Bagging’, as they conquer each of Scotland’s 282 Munros.

A Corbett is the next highest of Scotland’s mountains and is also categorized by height. To be classed as a Corbett, a mountain must be over 2,500ft, but less than 3,000ft, and have a drop of at least 500ft between each listed hill and any adjacent higher one.

They were named after John Rooke Corbett. In the 1920s Corbett compiled a list of Scottish hills between 2,500 and 3,000ft with a prominence of at least 500ft. In 1930 Corbett became the fourth person to complete all 282 Munros, and there are 221 summits classed as a Corbett.

Grahams are defined as a Scottish mountain between 2,000 and 2,500ft, which is the minimum requirement in the UK to be classed as a ‘mountain’, with a minimum prominence drop of 492ft. There are 224 Grahams in Scotland. Originally, mountains in this height range were known as ‘Elsies’, which was short for Lesser Corbetts, or ‘LCs’.

And finally, there are 89 Donald’s. These are hills in Lowland Scotland that exceed 2000 feet in height.

So whatever you fancy hiking (bagging), there’s a mountain for you. 

We set out on our journey to Fort Augustus, beginning at Laggan Locks, where we were picked up yesterday. 

The old Eagle Barge is located at the locks and was the only other option for dinner last night. We were really glad we had booked dinner at our inn and didn’t have to get back out. 

A tunnel of trees starts our walk off just right. 

Again, the size of the trees is massive. 

We soon arrive at Laggan Bridge, which is the high point of the Caledonian Canal, 106’ above sea level. We initially followed the eastern shore of Loch Oich, one of Scotland’s most beautiful and pristine natural woodlands, teeming with birds and wildlife.

We passed the old Invergarry railway station which they are ‘doing up’. From there it would be walking on a new cyclepath round Loch Oich to Aberchalder on an old railway line.

Old railway car

I told Kody she was going to have to put the brakes on. 

Wood Cranesbill

Cowslip

More Rhododendron 

Lupin-lined woodland forests were the tone of the day until we joined up with the canal where we encountered cyclists, boaters and the occasional fellow hiker.

We had the option of buying a key to toilets along the GGW. This is the first and only toilet we’ve seen in three days. I’m sure glad we didn’t pay £20 for a key. 

Old cottage ruins

Railway tunnel

As someone else said, I sure hope a bicycle doesn’t fall on me. 

Baa baa black sheep

Red clover

We reached the end of Loch Oich, at Oich Bridge, which dates back to the 1850’s. The historic structure was originally built to carry the railway across the River Oich. The railway is no more but the bridge still provides panoramic vistas of the surrounding area. 

We followed the canal for a few miles along to Fort Augustus.

Highland coos

Notice the Corbetts in the background. 

Bird cherry

More bluebells

More locks

There must be a specific time you can get through because three boats came at once and they closed the gate behind them and started raising the water in the next lock. 

Buckbrush

Alpine poppy

Daisy

Jo Anne, I found more of these tiny little pine cones. 

The canal pathway led us to the final Kytra Loch the last before reaching the tourist laden village of Fort Augustus where the canal meets the Mighty Loch Ness. This section of canal and Kytra Lock was one of the highlights of our day. Why? They had a porta loo which received much use and little maintenance!!! 🤮 However it had tissue and walls to keep us from mooning others as another hiker did on the trail. 

Song thrush

Opening the gates, you can see Loch Ness in the background. We will be following along Loch Ness all the way to Inverness. 

We stopped at Cobb cafe for lunch. It had a line out the door. Kody had pesto, sun-dried tomato and mozzarella panini. 

I had lentil soup. 

Water pouring over the locks. 

Remains of an old bridge

The buses lined up forever. 

Fort Augustus is usually one of the places walkers rest on their journey, with several accommodation options available. We are not taking a rest day so will move on tomorrow. The walk into the village, along Loch Oich, is one of the most beautiful sections of the Great Glen Way. Fort Augustus is where the Caledonian Canal joins the famous Loch Ness, with another series of lock gates. We’ll keep our eyes open for the monster 😉 or at least the topiary version, which is located beside the canal. There are several shops here, and it is a good place to resupply. Until 1998 there was a community of Benedictine monks living here, and the abbey, built in 1876, is unmistakable. Our host drove us by and pointed it out. 

He also took us by the Banks House B&B named after the family in Mary Poppins, although not affiliated. It was the original bank in Fort Augustus. 

It is a busy little town, centered on a series of locks which were a hive of activity when we arrived.  There were buses and buses of people brought here all in search of Nessie. 😁

We found ourselves a perfect spot to sit on the grass and watch all the people while waiting on time to check in to our lodging.

We are staying at Rose Cottage, located directly on the Great Glen Way.

The hostess was doing laundry when we arrived. She was ironing the bed linens 😳 and I must say the linens are very nicely done. Her husband was over in the corner at his desk working away. 

I asked if by any chance she had an ice pack for my foot. She said yes she thought she might and brought one up to our room straight away. When he found out I needed an ice pack, he asked if he could drive us back to the village for dinner and come pick us up when we were done. Since the inn is about 3/4 mile from the village and straight uphill, it was such a blessing! This has been the nicest place we’ve stayed by far and they are the most gracious hosts. We lack for nothing. 

We ate dinner at the Lock Inn. Kody had the grilled goat cheese salad. 

I had carrot and sweet potato soup. 

Stats:

Steps - 29,086

Miles - 12.4

Elev Gain - 330’

Time - 5 hrs 10 min

Final thought for today:

"Worry does not empty tomorrow of its sorrow. It empties today of its strength." Corrie Ten Boom

"And which of you by being anxious can add a single hour to his span of life?" Matthew 6:27

We are invited to know a freedom from the worry and anxiety that comes from undue concern about things. Kody and I have talked much about how a little bit of gratitude could solve so many issues today. We can reflect the same kind of heart that Matthew Henry showed when he said the following after being robbed:

"Lord I thank you:

that I have never been robbed before;

that although they took my money, they spared my life;

that although they took everything, it wasn't very much;

that it was I who was robbed, not I who robbed."