Moray Coast Walk

I took another photo of the houses across the street because, well just because I like it so much. I can picture sitting in the window of that turret reading a good book and having a cuppa. 

We both had porridge this morning. Neither of us saw it on the menu yesterday 🙄 but we heard a man order it so we decided that for our final breakfast in Scotland we’d have Scottish porridge. We have to leave before breakfast tomorrow to take a train to the airport. 🙁

We decided to walk another section of the Moray Coast today so after breakfast we again walked to the bus station to catch the bus to Buckie. 

The last section of the Moray Coast Trail is a grand finale, passing through scenic fishing villages, past spectacular rock formations, and along golden sand beaches. Cullen itself is one of the most picturesque towns on the Moray Coast.

First glimpse of the North Sea today as we arrive in Buckie. 

Buckie is primarily known for its history as a major fishing and shipbuilding port, particularly for its steam drifter fleet. Today, it's a popular tourist destination thanks to its active harbor, Cluny Harbor, and the chance to see Moray Firth dolphins (which sadly we didn’t see). The town also offers coastal walks, golf courses, and is a starting point for the Speyside Way long-distance footpath.

We walked through the fishing district on our way out of the village and it is still a major fish exporting operation. 

Fuchsia 

Yes! There is a Baptist church in Buckie. 

And a beautiful, huge Catholic Church. We were surprised by the number of kids on the bus who got off to go to school here. 

Very large fishing vessels 

They don’t want you climbing over this fence. 

Leaving the harbor area of Buckie, the route carries on through Ianstown to Portessie, where the scenery starts to get particularly nice again. 

Ornamental onion 

As Kody would say, these people had crazy for breakfast. If I didn’t mention it, the weather was quite chilly this morning, to say nothing of the water temp.  

The dog was even smart enough  not to go into the water. 

A sandy, rocky beach curves around the bay, with yet another golf club at the far eastern end.

Strathlene is an area between Buckie and Findochty which has a caravan site facing onto the Moray Firth. At one time the Strathlene House Hotel, a former mansion, was a popular local venue with a pleasant beach leading directly off its lawn. There was also a large outdoor seawater swimming pool which was opened in 1932 situated next to the hotel on the shoreline. Strathlene used to be a popular place to visit for day tourists from the inland towns in the 1930s and 1940s, situated conveniently as it was a mere 300 yards below the Great North of Scotland Railway's Portessie Station and with connecting steps leading down virtually directly from the platform to the seaside. The hotel was converted into private accommodation as flats in the late 1970s at around the same time as most of the beach had been eroded by longshore drift. The swimming pool had also been closed some years earlier and Strathlene had become rather faded. 

It is now home to the Strathlene Golf Course

When we were walking along here we kept hearing something that sounded like the wind blowing through the rocks. As we got closer Kody said, are those seals? Yes indeed they were and we could hear them barking at each other. You’ll have to click and then zoom in on the photos to really see them. 

If they survive the dangers of being a pup, seals are relatively long-lived animals. Often living longer than 30 years, one female grey seal in the Shetland Islands was known to be 46 years old. 

Seals have flippers instead of hands and feet, they can dive for up to an hour to depths of more than 200m and even down to 500m without surfacing for breath. They spend most of the time at sea, and may swim thousands of miles during their lives in search of food. They come ashore for three reasons; to breed, to moult and to rest. 

This is the site of the former outdoor swimming pool and lido at Strathlene, Buckie, which in its heyday before the advent of foreign holidays, was a vibrant and busy spot with visitors and locals enjoying the seaside. 

The pool was opened in July 1932 with a grand gala featuring aquatic sports and water polo, and a marquee dance. It had been developed by Buckie Town Council, following their acquisition of Strathlene House and its estate, for the provision of recreational and leisure facilities. Strathlene House became a boarding house and tea room; a golf course was constructed; putting greens were formed. 

However, by the late 1950's, the pool had started its decline into a poor state of repair, as a reduction in visitor numbers began to be felt all along the Moray Firth, and investment in repairs and maintenance became harder to justify. 

In the carly 1960's the Town Council had begun to discuss the possibility of heating the water in the pool, but with possibly one eye on the provision of a new indoor facility, nothing ever happened. 

Now all that is left is the outer walls.

I wish you could hear the waves crashing on the rocks. 

After Portessie, we followed the grassy track around the coast, where a lovely bay backed by cliffs appears around the corner. You can go down to the pebble beach for a look and change of perspective, or just continue along the trail, climbing to the top of the cliffs and skirting around the bay, which we did. 

However, Kody decided to forge a new trail and I had to put it in 4 wheel drive. 

A secluded practice field 

The trail then leads down some steps and turns to the right, with picturesque Findochty (pronounced Fin-ech-ty) appearing ahead. It was a perfect spot for a break. 

A local artist, Correna Cowie, created a statue in 1959 of a seated fisherman, known as The White Mannie, who watches over the harbour. 

This scripture is on the plinth. 

Jo Anne I took a few photos of purple things just for you. I know you’ll appreciate them 🤣. 

When I am an old woman I shall wear purple with a red hat which doesn’t go. 

Speedwell

We crossed a bridge over a narrow rocky inlet, then passed through Findochty Caravan Park. From here, we walked around the pretty harbor and past colorful old houses to reach a small sheltered bay with picnic benches. Then there was yet another lovely beach, where we saw dramatic rock formations stretching off down the coast.

Many of the villagers work in the oil and gas industry - as is true of much of the surrounding area - due mainly to the downturn in the Scottish fishing industry over the last 30 – 40 years and the area's relative proximity to Aberdeen.

Leaving Findochty, we climbed the cliffside trail to the top. As we were walking out of town this man walked by and we said hello. After a couple of minutes he turned around and asked if we were walking the Moray Coast Trail. We said yes. He said he’s seen a lot of walkers get lost here so he walked over and showed us where to go and a couple of places up top to get good views of the village. The AllTrails map had good directions but the way he showed us cut off a good bit of pavement walking. Again, God is so good and has put people in our path to guide us so many times throughout the past two weeks. Blessed beyond measure.  

Rocky and seaweed covered area we crossed to take his shortcut. 

The place he told us to look back for a view of the village. 

Right up here with the birds

Psalm 19:1: "The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of his hands." The vastness and beauty of the universe are a testament to God's power and artistry. His creation is a clear and natural way for people to see and understand His glory and power if we only look. 

Verdant green fields, azure blue waters and cerulean blue skies with a touch of golden yellow foliage. 

Peacock butterfly 

Up top, a wide and gentle track leads all the way to Portknockie, with lovely views over the coastline opening up here and there. Approaching Portknockie, there were fantastic views of the harbor and outdoor swimming pool from the clifftop trail.

They were taking lessons in kayaking and snorkeling and having a blast. You could hear the girls squealing all the way up top. 

The dramatic views below are only a precursor to the most spectacular chunk of rock along the entire Moray Coast Trail, just a few hundred meters beyond.

This is known as Three Creeks where wooden fishing boats were built in Portknockie between 1883 and 1905. During this boom time in herring fishing over 50 carvel boats, mainly of the famous "Zulu" design, were built and launched here. This was when Portknockie harbor was being used by about 100 active fishing boats.

Just off the coast on the eastern side of Portknockie, Bow Fiddle Rock is a sight to behold. Named for its likeness to the tip of a fiddle bow, we’d say this natural sea arch looks more like a whale’s tail from certain angles.

We met this lovely family who brought their picnic up to the rock to enjoy high tea in a most beautiful place. Love the old picnic basket. 

They were discussing the lack of rain and the one with the beard said the moray coast is the second driest place in the UK. The older man said that’s because there are no pubs. 🤣

And here we are at bow fiddle rock. 

Continuing along the clifftop trail, the view of Bow Fiddle Rock is ever-changing with different angles revealing new shapes and likenesses. 

As we rounded the headland Cullen comes into view, first the newer hilltop houses, then the cluster of traditional fishermen’s cottages lining the shore. 

From the clifftops, the route leads down rocky steps to the left, passing another sea tunnel known as the Whale’s Mouth.

The route continues around the coast, passing through a grassy, rocky and fern-covered area, with cliffs rising to the right. There are a couple of small caves here which are popular bouldering spots. 

Preacher's Cave, also known as St. Duane's Den, was used by the Free Church after its break from the Church of Scotland in the 1840s, and it's said that a sermon was preached in the cave by the headmaster of Portknockie Public School, Mr. J.K. Moyes, attended by 5000 people. The cave is named after St. Dubhán, a 5th-century priest and pilgrim. Live Breathe Scotland writes that the cave is a significant landmark along the coastal path and is known for its large angular opening and fair amount of space inside. It might have a fair amount of space but I don’t think there’s anywhere near enough room for 5,000 people. 

And the oddest thing is neither of the flashlights on our phones would work in here. 

We emerged at the rocky western end of Cullen Beach, a beautiful stretch of sand leading us to the endpoint of the Moray Coast Trail. At low tide, an impressive expanse of beach is revealed and is a pleasure to walk on.

The beach was covered with jelly fish 

More purple for you Jo Anne. 

Not sure if someone is living in this barrel shaped thing or not but it has a chimney and looks like it’s been occupied. 

At the eastern end of the beach two impressive stacks rise from the sand. They are known as The Three Kings (where the third is we’re not sure?).

A striking arched viaduct and scenic sweep of golden sand complete the picture-perfect view. 

 We ended our walk at The Square and main street in town (with its various shops and cafes) by switching back up Seafield Street and walking under the viaduct.

We stopped at the Seafield Inn for dinner. 

I had fish and chips for one last time. 

Kody had tomato soup and vegetable quiche. As we were finishing up our meal I checked the bus schedule to get back to Elgin. There was a bus leaving in about 4 minutes or wait another hour. We quickly paid and walked outside to the bus stop, checked the sign for the route and realized ours would be across the street. We crossed over just as the bus pulled up. 

Saying farewell to the North Sea and the Moray Coast Trail through the bus window. 

Today’s Stats:

Steps - 26,457

Miles - 10.7

Elev Gain - 729’

Time - 3 hrs 42 min

Total trip Stats:

Steps - 377,169

Miles - 154

Elev Gain - 15,913

Time - 43 hrs 42 min

I can’t believe it’s come and gone. Tomorrow we taxi to the train station, train to the airport and two flights home to Dallas, then Kody still has a drive home to Oklahoma. 

It’s been a most amazing journey together. I’ve been so blessed to get to share it with Kody and my sister virtually. Even though she wasn’t here physically, she was here in every other sense. 

Until next time…

I will close with these verses from Psalms 95:1-8

Oh come, let us sing to the LORD; let us make a joyful noise to the rock of our salvation! 

Let us come into his presence with thanksgiving; let us make a joyful noise to him with songs of praise! 

For the LORD is a great God, and a great King above all gods. 

In his hand are the depths of the earth; the heights of the mountains are his also. 

The sea is his, for he made it, and his hands formed the dry land.

Oh come, let us worship and bow down; let us kneel before the LORD, our Maker! 

For he is our God, and we are the people of his pasture, and the sheep of his hand. Today, if you hear his voice, 

do not harden your hearts.”