Day 1: Fort William to Gairlochy

This is as close to a sunrise as I could get. The days are very long here. 

Our day began with a hearty Scottish breakfast, our dining room with views over Loch Linhe. 

The breakfast offering is the full Scottish but we selected what we wanted from it. 

Door knob is very low!

The mountains in the distance set the tone for what we knew would be a day of scenic splendor.

Before leaving Fort William, we wandered along the shore, picked up a pebble to carry across country, and dipped our toes in the Atlantic Ocean. 

I also soaked my sore heel in the cold water awhile. 

The elevation looks worse than it actually is. From the lowest to the highest point is just over 100'  but we were up and down it several times. 

We are on the Great Glen Way, our noses pointed in the direction of the North Sea, that is in a northeasterly direction, and we couldn't be more excited. There is a rush of adrenaline and exhilaration when beginning a long-distance hike that is indescribable; not knowing what lies ahead but knowing we will experience God's creation in a very up-close and personal way, and knowing that we will leave here changed. 

The walk begins at the site of the defensive fortification that gives Fort William its name. The main structure of the fort would have been where the railway station now stands but here at the start of the walk you can see part of the site. In truth, there is little to see today other than a grassy field and a few low stone walls, but there is a panel that outlines a brief history of the place, and its history is significant.

The stone stronghold was built in 1698, following the orders of King William III, hence Fort William. It was one of three forts positioned along the length of the Great Glen, the others being Fort George at Ardersier, near Inverness, and Fort Augustus, that were constructed as part of an effort to quell the dissenting Jacobites, the clans loyal to the exiled Stuart King (Charles Edward Stuart). The unrest came to a head in the 1745 Jacobite Uprising when Charles, or 'Bonnie Prince Charlie' as he is more romantically known, attempted to regain the British crown.

Heath

The official first signpost

And the trail

It’s not long before we spot another sign.

And then the canal

Birch

The blue bells are blooming everywhere and are gorgeous. 

Water is so clear

Very fragrant Hawthorn

We passed the remains of Old Inverlochy Castle, which had been built in the strategic location near the river’s mouth, in 1280, by a wealthy Norman family. It’s a quiet place now, with mowed grass inside and weeds protruding from mortar, the stones mum concerning centuries of war and conquest which played out there. It's remarkable that so much of the castle remains; more than the Fort William fort built 400 years later. However, the stones are falling so they have it gated and we couldn’t walk around inside. 

Bistorta

With awe-inspiring views of Ben Nevis and sister mountains behind us, the walk led us along a wooded river bank, where we reached the iconic soldiers bridge.

The footbridge dates back to the 1960s when The Army built it as a goodwill gesture. Hence the name Soldiers Bridge. Its main purpose was to provide water to the pulp and paper mills in the nearby village of Corpach.

However, by 2016 the bridge had fallen into a state of near total disrepair. Subsequently, it took a two year restoration project to the tune of over half a million pounds before it could finally be reopened to the public. The views from the bridge showcase the beauty of the surrounding landscape.

Ben Nevis

We followed the River Lochy where it empties into the brackish water of Sea Loch Linnhe, and along the banks of Loch Linnhe, to Corpach where the Caledonian Canal meets the Atlantic. Gulls squawked and hunted on the sandbars exposed at low tide. 

Elderberry

We had to stop and wait on a train 

Continuing our journey we followed the towpath to Banavie where the fascinating engineering marvel of Neptune’s staircase captured our attention. The boats pass through the intricate system of a series of eight interconnected locks, that raise the canal 80’ over the length of 400’. In the course of researching this trip I learned a new word, gangoozle. This is the act of standing on a towpath and watching the comings and goings on the canal. Neptune's Staircase is probably the ultimate location for gangoozling since it takes so long for the boats to get through the eight locks.

A couple in a canoe

Mallard

Yew

A wide, level gravel path followed the canal easily, undulating from right to left in slow motion. Other walkers were passing us in both directions and the first of a phalanx of cyclists was sharing the route as well. Everyone seemed to offer a greeting as we crossed paths. 

The Loy Sluices is a feature of the canal where excess water in its channel can flow off to enter the River Lochy; it's a short distance south of the aqueduct over the River Loy.

We stopped here for a rest and I soaked my foot in the cold canal while we ate a piece of fruit.

Not a bad view while soaking. 

Lacy tree fern

Moy Swing Bridge

The swing bridge is the original cast-iron bridge designed by Thomas Telford. It is operated by hand and despite its grand appearance, its sole purpose is to provide access across the canal to the farmer's fields. 

Our meandering walk along the canal wound its way through stunning countryside above the River Lochy and led us to Gairlochy, 

We stopped at this old cemetery where we contacted our accommodation host for our arranged transfer to Spean Bridge. We were in Gairlochy by 1:30 and it was a bit early so instead of waiting on Simon, we started walking to the inn. Morven told us she would send Simon as soon as he returned from the store.  

The village of Spean Bridge is often used as a place to stay for hikers following the Great Glen, although it is 4 miles off-trail. It is also the site of the Commando Memorial, a tall bronze statue made by Scott Sutherland. It has been said that the commando tactics formulated during WW2 in the woods, glens and mountains of the area were the birth of modern special forces. Thousands of men and women came to this corner of Scotland to train as commando soldiers, and also as spies in the Special Operations Executive. It is a past that is only just being revealed, and as documents are released they tell remarkable stories.

A thistle yard ornament 

I’ve never seen a pine tree growing out of a stone bridge. 

Our lodging is Coire Glas (Gaelic for Grey Corries), overlooking the spectacular Grey Corries, home to the Nevis Range Ski Resort. Morven made us dinner reservations as soon as we arrived. We were at the restaurant at 4 pm 🤣.  

Over dinner we reminisced about the highlights of our first day excited about the new experiences that awaited us on day two. There was a 70% chance of rain today. By the time we woke, it was zero. The skies were blue and with a light breeze, it was perfect walking weather. Forecast for tomorrow is more of the same. What a blessing!

Sweet potato and spinach tart with red pepper, caramelized onions, topped with sunflower and pumpkin seeds. It was delicious!! 

GF/V sticky toffee pudding

Apple crumble with cinnamon

Stats:

Steps - 34,934

Miles - 14.6

Elev Gain - 1,266’

I will close with one of my favorite biblical passages: Psalm 84:1-4

"How lovely is your dwelling place,

O Lord of hosts!

My soul longs, yes, faints

for the courts of the Lord;

my heart and flesh sing for joy

to the living God.

Even the sparrow finds a home,

and the swallow a nest for herself,

where she may lay her young,

at your altars, O Lord of hosts,

my King and my God.

Blessed are those who dwell in your house,

ever singing your praise!"

As much as I long to walk in His creation now, how much more does my soul long to dwell with Him for all eternity.